Hi Everyone! Sometimes the best treasures are hiding in our own backyard. I decided to get back in touch with some of them in my neighborhood of Trastevere, just across the Tiber from the historic centre. Hope you enjoy this week’s newsletter!
Inside the Basilica of Santa Cecilia in Rome’s Trastevere quarter, you find layers of history, from the ancient Roman ruins in the basement to the marble statue of Cecilia, a noble woman, tortured and martyred for her faith in around 230 A.D.
But if you enter the door to convent, just to the left of the church entrance, and take the elevator to the first floor, I promise you’ll find a hidden treasure. It’s Pietro Cavallini’s depiction of the Last Judgment, an incredibly detailed, vibrant fresco stretching across the wall at the rear of the church.
The fresco was created in the early 1290s – hard to believe I know - and is considered his masterpiece. Cavallini was known for his mosaics and you can find some of these in the Basilica of Santa Maria, on the other side of Trastevere.
But the powerful depiction of the apostles and angels seated beside Jesus, and their emotional expressions are really worth seeing. Every time I see them I notice something new – the eyes, the positions of the hands, the different brush strokes used to depict the hair and the beards. And the vibrant pastel shades of the angels’ wings really seem far too modern for the 13th century.
One reviewer noted the angels’ wings looked more like a modern Missoni design. I think that might be right.
Are you getting hungry yet?
Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe at Roma Sparita - Photo: JMcKenna
In Trastevere you can still find authentic Roman food among the cheap cocktail bars and takeaway pizza joints. Next to our fresco inside the Basilica of Santa Cecilia, you’ll find Roma Sparita . Known for its iconic Spaghetti Cacio e Pepe, a Roman specialty, served in a crunchy cheese dish. And yes you can eat that too! I must admit I was reluctant to suggest this place to my friends because these days it’s full of tourists. Did someone say cheezy? But the sun was shining and we had a table in the sun-drenched piazza. What’s not to love? We ordered artichokes - poached a la Romana and gently fried a la Giudea - and a puntarelle , the bitter chicory salad we love in Rome, followed with the cacio e pepe. “It was brill,” said my pal who has lived in Rome longer than I have. No room for the Tiramisu despite our cheeky waiter’s suggestions. What an adventure.
Looking for something special?
Sorry to say it. But unique designs at an affordable price are becoming harder to find in Rome. It is simply challenging for smaller artisans or specialty gift shops to survive. I often find something special for a friend – or even myself – at Pandora della Malva. It’s in the piazza with the same name, just metres from Piazza Trilussa.
Here I’ve found hand-crafted silver necklaces, ear-rings and bracelets, as well as colorful scarves. There are unusual hand-bags from Italy and France too, that you won’t find anywhere else. When I stopped by after lunch, I found some delicate ear-rings for less than €100 and some chunky synthetic necklaces. I did put them back on the shelf. But it was worth a look!
Have a great week! Alla prossima!
