Spoleto is one of those magical medieval towns that sits on the top of a hill offering panoramic views across the lush valleys of Umbria. Only 90 minutes on the train from Rome, it is perfect for a day trip, a cultural treasure and an indulgent bite to eat.
“It’s fabulous,” says my travel companion. “It’s an easy side trip that can take you away from the business of a big city to the calm of the countryside for a day.”
Never mind the packs of modern day tourists. Yes, there are a lot of them as the spring weather warms up. But Spoleto has seen plenty of invasions – in fact the town’s history seemed to be marked by one colonisation after another.
The town dates back to the Iron Age, then in 241 B.C. the Romans moved in and named the town Spoletium.
Emperor Augustus stopped by for a sacred ritual at a temple here before he headed further north to fight for the future of Modena. You can still find remnants of the Roman Empire amid the medieval architecture today.
In 1198 Spoleto finally became part of the Papal States and the town’s artistic and cultural life really flourished.
Extensive mountain trails nearby attract plenty of hikers and cyclists. For the less ambitious, it’s a bit easier to wander around the edge of the town to the Ponte delle Torre, a 14th century arched bridge, which offers great views across a steep ravine.
“Spoleto is worth the trip for the frescoes in the main church and the aqueduct which offers breathtaking views of the surrounding scenery,” one tourist told me.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta is definitely worth a look. It is a Romanesque jewel with stunning frescoes by one of my favorite artists, Fra Filippo Lippi. Commissioned in 1466, the artwork was finished by Lippi’s assistants after he died, apparently from poisoning, (Yikes!) in 1469.
There is also a bronze bust of Pope Urban VIII inside, but I loved the fresco painted by Bernardino di Betto Betti, better known as Pinturicchio, in around 1497 located in the small chapel near the church entrance.
Spoleto is famous for its olive oil and the delicious Montefalco red which is largely a Sangiovese grape with Sagrantino and Merlot. In the historic centre there are a couple of ceramic stores and we also found an innovative fashion boutique with unique artisanal designs and jewellery.
All this sightseeing making you hungry? My favorite place for lunch is the Trattoria La Torretta. There’s a touch of quiet elegance about this family-run place and you can sit outside in the warmer months. La Torretta offers an array of home-made pastas and a selection of lamb, rabbit and other succulent main courses. Not to forget a delicious tiramisu for dessert with a glass of that drinkable local red, the Montefalco.
One sad note. As we began walking back to the railway station for the return trip home, we noticed how many shops and businesses were “for sale” or “for rent”. A local café owner said merchants were struggling because everyone was either shopping online or at the big shopping malls outside town. Sadly it is a nationwide trend and hefty taxes on merchants certainly don’t help either.
Let’s hope someone takes action to arrest the decline – otherwise even more Italian towns are going to end up as depopulated as the €1 towns..and begging for foreigners to come in and save both their real estate and their communities.
