So they say there are more than 900 churches in Rome.
You might think that’s enough to keep the faithful busy. Not to mention the tourists. Although one guide told me an American client paid him top dollar with the specific request, “Anything but churches!”
He was told to keep his head down as his chauffeur-driven car criss-crossed the cobble stoned streets of the Eternal City because, let’s face it, the churches here are pretty hard to miss.
In fact there’s a church in my backyard that is one of the most beautiful in the city. And it’s full of surprises.
According to local legend the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere was the first official place of Christian worship in Rome. It was built by Pope Callistus I in the 3rd century and was finished by Saint Julius I in 340 A.D.
Rebuilt during the pontificate of Pope Innocent II, it was later restored and embellished by subsequent popes.
Many parts of the church date back to the 12th and 13th century. There are stunning mosaics on the façade and others created by Pietro Cavallini in the apse in 1291 depicting the "Life of the Virgin". Cavallini’s works popped up in the Basilica of Santa Cecilia and featured in one of my previous articles. The detail in the mosaics is mindblowing.
The portico of Santa Maria was remodeled in 1702 by Carlo Fontana and today houses fragments of friezes and ornaments of the ancient basilica as well as Christian epigraphs.
Outside there is a 12th century bell tower that keeps me awake at night with its regular chimes.
Inside the basilica is a classic grand design complemented by spectacular mosaics and a gilded ceiling. Layers of ancient history merge with the medieval. The massive 22 columns that support the nave are single pieces of granite that were miraculously transported across the Tiber River in the 12th century after they were plundered from the ancient Roman Baths of Caracalla.
The rich ceiling waa designed by Domenichino in 1617 and In 1860 the floor was almost completely rebuilt by the architect Vespignani with the 13th century floor mosaics.
This church somehow glides through the ages with ease and delivers plenty of artistic gems along the way.
Tour groups following flag-wielding guides swamp the church these days ignoring the calls for silence. But many miss the two ancient Roman mosaics hidden behind a door on the left side of the apse. Created well before Christianity was legalised.
Just ring the bell and you will find these treasures which date back to the 1st century A.D. Just be sure to close the door when you leave.
